Everything You’ll Need

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Step 1: Prepare the Space

Take Off Baseboards and Old Floors

First, remove the floors and baseboards to show the subfloor. This helps you start fresh and lets the hardwood expand properly at the edges.

Use a pry bar to gently take off baseboards without harming the drywall, so you can put them back later. Remove any carpet, vinyl, or laminate, and scrape off old glue or staples.

Clean and Make Subfloor Even

Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to clear dust, nails, and glue bits. Look for low or high spots using a straight edge or long level.

  • For high spots: sand them down.

  • For low spots: fill them with a floor leveling mix to make it smooth.

A flat subfloor stops squeaks and helps the floor last longer.

Check for Wetness or Damage

Wetness can ruin hardwood floors. Use a moisture meter to check the subfloor and wood planks.

  • For wood subfloors: moisture should be under 12%.

  • For concrete subfloors: follow the maker’s limits — usually under 4% with a calcium chloride test.

If there’s too much moisture, wait and fix it before moving on.

Put Down Underlayment or Vapor Barrier (If Needed)

Depending on your floor type and subfloor, you might need underlayment or a moisture barrier:

  • Over concrete: use a vapor barrier or underlayment with moisture protection.

  • Over plywood or OSB: rosin paper, felt, or foam may be suggested.

Follow what the maker says to keep the warranty and ensure the best performance. Lay the underlayment flat without overlap, and tape seams if needed.

Step 2: Plan Your Hardwood Layout

Pick Your Starting Wall

Usually, lay hardwood planks along the longest or most seen wall to make the room look bigger. If working in several rooms, think about how planks will line up through doorways.

Snap a chalk line for a straight guide along your starting wall. This keeps the first rows straight and helps the rest of the layout stay aligned.

Let the Flooring Adjust

Before putting it down, let hardwood planks adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity for 48 to 72 hours. Place the boxes flat in the room, open the ends for air flow.

This helps the wood fit the environment, reducing risks like expansion or gaps later.

Try a Dry Layout

Lay out some boards without attaching them to see how the layout will appear. This lets you:

  • Check that the layout looks even

  • Avoid narrow planks at the walls

  • Plan for obstacles like vents or doors

Use this time to mix boards from different boxes for a smooth color and grain look.

Stagger Seams and Mix Patterns

For a natural floor look, stagger plank ends by 6 to 8 inches in nearby rows. Avoid repeating lengths or making “stair-step” or “H” patterns, which stand out.

Tip: Use planks of different lengths and alternate them across rows for a natural flow.

Figure Out Materials (Add Some for Waste)

Measure your space in square feet (length × width) and add 10% for cutting waste, errors, and future fixes.

If your room is odd-shaped or you’re laying diagonally, increase waste to 12–15%.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

Before starting, choose the best way to install your hardwood flooring type and subfloor. Different methods need different tools and techniques based on your needs.

Nail-Down Installation (Common for Solid Hardwood)

This method is good for solid hardwood floors over a wooden base like plywood. Use a flooring nailer or stapler to attach each board to the subfloor.

  • Best for: Solid hardwood over wood subfloors

  • Tools needed: Flooring nailer, mallet, air compressor

  • Pros: Very secure and lasts long

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate (needs precision and specific tools)

Glue-Down Installation

Mainly for engineered hardwood over concrete, this method uses flooring glue on the subfloor, then you press the boards into place.

  • Best for: Engineered hardwood over concrete

  • Tools needed: Flooring adhesive, notched trowel, floor roller

  • Pros: Strong hold and takes up little space

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate to high (messy and needs ventilation)

Floating Installation (Click-Lock)

This is popular for DIYers with click-lock engineered hardwood. Planks lock together and “float” over a base without nails or glue.

  • Best for: Click-lock engineered hardwood over any flat surface

  • Tools needed: Spacers, tapping block, underlayment

  • Pros: Quick, tidy, easy for beginners

  • DIY Difficulty: Easy

Pro Tip: If using solid hardwood over a wooden base, nail-down is usually best. For engineered hardwood, floating floors are favored by DIYers for being simple and tool-free.

Step 4: Mark Guidelines and Snap Chalk Lines

Before you start, make a straight line to help guide your flooring installation.

Draw a Chalk Line by Your Starting Wall
Find your starting wall, often the longest one. Measure the width of one board, including the gap, and draw a chalk line next to that wall. This will be your guide for the first row.

Keep Rows Straight with the Line
As you place the boards, keep them lined up with the chalk line. This helps ensure the floor stays straight across the room.

Leave a 1/2″ Gap for Expansion
Wood changes with humidity. Use spacers to keep a 1/2-inch gap between the floor and walls or other fixed items. This lets the floor expand without bending.

Step 5: Lay the First Row of Planks

Trim Door Jambs if Needed
Before you start, check if the plank needs to slide under door frames. Use a saw to trim the bottom of the door jambs so the planks can fit well without gaps.

Start with Groove Side Facing the Wall
Place the first plank with the groove side toward the wall. This makes it easy for the next row to lock in place. Start on the longest, straightest wall to keep the flooring aligned.

Secure the First Row
Depending on how you’re installing it:

  • Nail-down: Use a nailer to attach the boards to the subfloor through the tongue side.

  • Glue-down: Spread glue with a trowel and press each plank down firmly.

  • Floating (click-lock): Angle the second plank into the first and click to lock.

Make sure the planks are tight with no gaps between them.

Use Spacers to Maintain Expansion Gaps
Place 1/2″ spacers between the planks and the wall. This space lets the wood expand and contract naturally, preventing issues like buckling over time.

Step 6: Install the Remaining Flooring

After securing the first row, keep placing the hardwood planks one row at a time.

Stagger the End Joints for Stability
To make the floor strong and look natural, stagger the end joints by 6 inches. Do not line up joints in a row, as it can make the floor weak and repetitive.

Use a Tapping Block for a Tight Fit
Put a tapping block at the edge of each plank and tap it gently with a mallet to close any gaps. This keeps the boards tight without harming the edges.

Secure Boards Based on Your Method

  • Nail-down: Hammer nails through the tongue at a 45° angle every 6–8 inches.

  • Glue-down: Spread glue evenly and press planks down firmly.

  • Floating floor: Snap boards together at the ends and sides.

Check for Level Frequently
Every few rows, use a level to make sure the floor stays even. Fix any issues before you continue to avoid future problems.

Step 7: Cut Boards to Fit Edges and Corners

When you get close to walls or obstacles, cut the last planks to fit perfectly.

Measure and Mark Carefully
Use a tape measure to find out the space left, leaving 1/2″ for an expansion gap. Mark the plank with a pencil or chalk.

Use the Right Saw for the Job

  • Miter saw: Best for straight cuts.

  • Jigsaw: Good for curved cuts around vents, doors, or odd shapes.

Cut on a stable surface and wear safety glasses to keep dust and debris out of your eyes.

Maintain Expansion Gaps
Leave a 1/2″ gap between the floor and vertical surfaces like walls and cabinets. This helps the hardwood expand and contract without issues.

Step 8: Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips

Reattach Baseboards and Shoe Molding
After installing your hardwood planks, make the room look neat by putting back the baseboards around the edges. If you had shoe molding before, add it back for a nice finish.

Install Transition Strips
At doorways or where hardwood meets other floors, add the right transition strips. Use T-moldings, reducers, or thresholds based on the height and type of the next floor.

Leave Room for Movement
When attaching trim, do not fasten it to the hardwood floor. This lets the floor expand and contract without problems. Secure trim to the wall or subfloor instead of the floor itself.

Step 9: Clean and Inspect Your Floor

After installation, clean and check your new hardwood floor to make sure it’s perfect before using it.

Sweep and Vacuum
Get rid of all sawdust, wood chips, and dirt with a broom or a vacuum with a soft-brush. This helps you see the floor clearly and stops scratches during checking or setting up furniture.

Check for Problems
Look for gaps, uneven planks, or creaks when you walk on the floor. Use a tapping block to fix any slightly out-of-place boards or see your installation guide if changes are needed.

Allow the Floor to Settle
If you used glue to install, wait 24–48 hours before adding furniture or rugs. This gives the glue time to dry properly and keeps everything in place.

Pro Tips for a Successful Hardwood Installation

Getting great results with hardwood floors needs careful prep and accuracy. Follow these tips to work better and avoid problems:

  • Always check for moisture with a moisture meter before you start — this stops future issues like cupping.

  • Use knee pads to save your joints during long work, and make sure there’s good ventilation if using adhesives.

  • Check alignment every few rows to keep planks straight and even.

  • Work in small sections instead of rushing the whole room — this keeps quality high.

  • Be careful with cuts. Clean cuts make tight seams and look professional.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Hardwood

Even skilled DIYers can have trouble if they don’t avoid these common mistakes:

  • Skipping the acclimation time can make the wood expand or shrink later.

  • Ignoring subfloor moisture and flatness causes instability, noise, or gaps.

  • Not staggering seams weakens the floor and looks uneven.

  • Nailing too close to edges can split or crack planks.

  • Not using spacers leaves no room for expansion, causing buckling.

DIY vs. Professional Hardwood Installation

Putting in hardwood floors by yourself can save money and be satisfying, but it’s not for everyone. Here’s how to know if you should do it yourself or hire experts.

DIY Pros:

  • Lower overall cost

  • Control over speed and timing

  • Pride in doing it yourself

DIY Cons:

  • Hard work and takes a lot of time

  • Needs careful planning and special tools

  • Mistakes can be expensive

Professional Installation Pros:

  • Quick and expert results

  • Includes prep and cleanup

  • Usually comes with warranties

Professional Installation Cons:

  • Higher cost for labor

  • Less control over schedule

📊 Side-by-Side Comparison Table

Tool / MaterialSolid Hardwood (Nail-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Glue-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Floating/Click-Lock)Purpose
Tape Measure✔✔✔Measure layout and planks
Chalk Line✔✔✔Mark layout lines
Pry Bar✔✔✔Remove old flooring/baseboards
Moisture Meter✔✔✔Check subfloor moisture
Level✔✔✔Ensure even subfloor
SpacersOptional✔✔Maintain expansion gap at walls
Flooring Nailer / Stapler✔✘✘Secure solid planks to subfloor
Flooring Adhesive✘✔✘Glue engineered wood to subfloor
Trowel (for adhesive)✘✔✘Spread adhesive evenly
Click-Lock Installation Kit✘✘✔Includes tapping block, pull bar, spacers
Miter Saw✔✔✔Make crosscuts on planks
Jigsaw / Oscillating Tool✔✔✔Trim around obstacles
Safety Glasses✔✔✔Eye protection while cutting
Knee Pads
FeatureDIY InstallationProfessional Installation
Average Cost per Sq Ft$3 – $8 (materials + tools)$7 – $18 (includes labor)
Best ForBudget-conscious, handy homeownersBusy homeowners, large or complex jobs
Time CommitmentSeveral days or weekends1–2 days (typical)
Risk of MistakesModerate to highLow
Tool Investment Required✔❌ (provided by installer)
SatisfactionHigh (if done well)High (with professional finish)

👉 For a full breakdown of costs, methods, and scenarios, visit our Hardwood Flooring Cost Guide