Everything You’ll Need
| Tool/Material | Laminate Flooring | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Utility Knife | ✔ | Cut underlayment and trim laminate edges |
| Tape Measure | ✔ | Measure room size and plank cuts |
| Straight Edge | ✔ | Make straight cuts and align |
| Pry Bar | ✔ | Remove baseboards or old flooring |
| Spacers | ✔ | Keep expansion gaps along walls |
| Tapping Block | ✔ | Tap planks together gently |
| Non-Marring Hammer | ✔ | Works with tapping block for tight fit |
| Laminate Cutter or Saw | ✔ | Cut planks to size |
| Knee Pads | ✔ | Protect knees while installing |
| Level | ✔ | Ensure subfloor and first row are even |
| Chalk Line | ✔ | Mark straight lines |
| Underlayment Roll | ✔ (if needed) | Add cushioning and soundproofing |
| Jigsaw or Oscillating Tool | ✔ | Cut irregular shapes (around pipes, doors) |
Step 1: Choose a Layout Pattern
Before you put in your laminate flooring, think about how to arrange the planks. Though laminate has fewer pattern options than vinyl or tile, your layout can still change the room’s look a lot.
Here are the best patterns for laminate flooring:
Straight Lay Pattern (Most Common)
This is the easiest and most popular choice.
Planks go parallel to the longest wall or the direction of natural light. It gives a clean, timeless look, good for most rooms.
Diagonal Pattern
For a stylish, high-end look.
Planks are placed at a 45-degree angle to the walls, making small rooms look bigger or adding interest to square spaces. This might need more cutting and materials.
Random/Variable Stagger
Planks are set in a staggered way, changing lengths in each row.
This looks like real hardwood and stops patterns or seams from aligning.
Herringbone or Chevron (Advanced/Pro)
Some special laminate floors can be used for herringbone or chevron designs.
These beautiful patterns need careful cuts and extra planning. Not all brands have planks for these styles.
Step 2: Prepare the Space
Remove Baseboards and Old Flooring
First, take off the baseboards and old flooring to make a clean surface.
Use a pry bar to gently remove the baseboards. Do it slowly to avoid wall damage, so you can use the trim again.
If taking out carpet, cut into small parts with a utility knife and lift it up.
For tile, vinyl, or wood, follow the right steps to remove each kind.
Clean and Inspect the Subfloor
Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to get rid of dirt and debris.
Look for cracks, dips, or bumps. Use a leveling compound to fill low spots and sand down high spots. A flat subfloor is important for a lasting laminate floor.
Install Underlayment
Most laminate floors need an underlayment unless it’s already attached.
Underlayment provides cushioning, cuts down noise, and fixes small subfloor flaws.
Roll it out over the subfloor, ensuring the edges meet without overlapping. Tape the seams well.
✅ Pro Tip: When working over concrete, think about adding a moisture barrier under the underlayment.
Step 3: Choose an Installation Method
Laminate floors are easy for DIY projects and mainly use a simple install method: Click-Lock (Floating Floor). Laminate usually doesn’t need glue or stick-on methods.
Click-Lock (Floating Installation)
The Click-Lock system, also known as tongue-and-groove or interlocking, is the most popular and easy-to-use method for laminate floors. The planks click together securely without nails or glue.
This lets the floor “float” over the subfloor, allowing it to expand and contract naturally with changes in temperature and humidity.
Key Advantages:
No adhesives required — makes cleanup easier and uses fewer materials.
DIY-friendly — perfect for beginners.
Versatile — works well on various subfloors like concrete and plywood.
Installation Tips:
Always leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room’s edge using spacers to prevent buckling as the floor expands and contracts.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for aligning and clicking planks.
Use a tapping block and pull bar to make sure seams are tight without harming the plank edges.
Step 4: Lay the First Row
Trim the Short Tongue Edge of the First Plank
Start by cutting off the short tongue edge of your first plank. This helps the plank sit neatly against the wall for a polished look. Use a utility knife for thin laminates, or a circular saw or miter saw for thicker planks.
Position the First Plank 1/4 Inch from the Wall
Put the first plank along your starting wall, leaving a 1/4-inch gap between it and the wall. This gap is crucial because laminate flooring changes size with temperature and humidity.
Insert Spacers to Maintain the Expansion Gap
Place spacers between the wall and flooring to keep the expansion gap even as you lay the floor. Keep using these spacers around the room’s edges.
Stagger End Joints for Stability and Appearance
When starting the second row, cut the first plank to be at least 6 inches shorter than the first plank of the last row. This staggers the end joints, boosting the floor’s strength and giving it a more natural look.
Tip: Don’t line up joints across rows — this can weaken the floor and make it look fake.
Step 5: Cutting Planks to Fit
Straight Cuts — Score and Snap
For straight cuts (like trimming the end of a plank):
Use a utility knife to mark your cut line.
Snap the plank along the mark for a clean break (best for thinner laminates).
For thicker or tougher laminate, use a laminate cutter, circular saw, or miter saw for precise cuts.
Irregular Cuts — Around Corners and Obstacles
When cutting around door frames, corners, or awkward shapes:
Use a jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool.
These tools allow for precise, curved, or angled cuts.
Cutting Around Pipes
Measure the diameter of the pipe and add 1 inch for expansion.
Drill a hole in the plank to fit the pipe size.
Make a straight cut from the hole to the plank’s edge.
Seal around the pipe with a bead of silicone caulk to prevent moisture.
Tight Spaces — Under Door Jambs
Use a jamb saw to trim the bottom of the door frame.
This lets you slide the laminate plank underneath for a clean look.
Pro Tip: Always wear safety goggles and go slow with power tools to avoid damage.
| Cutting Task | Recommended Tool(s) | Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Straight cuts (length/width) | Utility knife (thin laminate) Laminate cutter or miter saw (standard) | Score and snap for thin laminate Use a saw for clean, straight cuts |
| Irregular cuts (corners, curves) | Jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool | Mark the shape, cut slowly following the line |
| Around pipes | Drill + Jigsaw or Hole saw | Drill a hole + cut a slit to the edge, leave ½” expansion gap |
| Tight spaces (door jambs) | Jamb saw (undercut saw) | Undercut the jamb to slide the plank underneath |
| Final fitting/trimming | Utility knife or laminate cutter | Trim small excess for a snug fit |
Step 6: Laying Subsequent Rows
Angle the Planks into Place
Start a new row by fitting the tongue of the plank into the previous row’s groove. Lower the plank gently until it fits perfectly.
Use a Tapping Block and Non-Marring Hammer
To fit tightly, use a tapping block with a non-marring hammer or mallet.
Place the tapping block on the plank’s edge.
Tap softly to close gaps between planks.
Never use a regular hammer directly on the laminate to avoid chipping or damaging it.
Maintain the Staggered Pattern
Keep staggering the joints by at least 6 inches in each row for stability and a natural look.
Check Expansion Gaps
Use spacers by the walls to ensure the 1/4-inch expansion gap is maintained during installation.
Step 7: Finishing the Installation
Install Transition Strips
After placing all planks, add transition strips at doorways and where laminate meets other floors. These strips:
Make a smooth, safe change between floors.
Guard the edges of your laminate.
Follow instructions from the maker for type and how to install.
Transitioning to Other Flooring
Choose the correct type of transition:
T-molding for floors at the same height.
Reducer strips for moving to lower floors like tile or vinyl.
Attach strips to the subfloor—not directly to the laminate—leaving a 1/4-inch gap to prevent buckling.
Reinstall Baseboards
Put baseboards back, attaching them to the wall, not the floor. This lets the laminate expand and shrink underneath.
Allow the Floor to Settle
Before placing furniture or walking much on the floor:
Wait at least 48 hours for the laminate to get used to the room’s temperature and humidity.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Laminate Flooring
Installing in Wet Areas
Laminate is not good for places with a lot of water, like bathrooms or laundry spaces. Water can get in and cause swelling.
Hammering on Planks
Do not hit laminate directly with a hammer. Use a tapping block or pull bar to secure planks gently without damage.
Aligning End Joints
Avoid lining up or overlapping plank ends. This weakens the floor and can cause gaps. Stagger joints by at least 6 inches.
Missing the Expansion Gap
Not leaving a 1/4-inch gap around the room can cause buckling as the floor changes with temperature and humidity.
Using Floor Too Soon
Let the laminate settle for 48 hours after laying it down before walking on it or adding heavy items.
Tips for a Successful Laminate Flooring Installation
- Measure and Plan for Extra
Carefully measure your room and buy 10% more laminate flooring for cuts and future needs. Check Planks Before Laying
Look at each plank for problems before using it. Set aside any damaged ones to keep the quality high.Wear Knee Pads
Use knee pads to protect your knees during long work sessions. This can help you work better.Work Carefully
Take time with each step, from starting the first row to cutting planks. Rushing can cause mistakes.Keep a Gap for Expansion
Leave a 1/4-inch gap around the edges to stop buckling as the laminate changes.
DIY vs. Professional Laminate Flooring Installation
Many homeowners like laminate flooring because it’s easy to install on your own. Whether you do it yourself or hire someone depends on how comfortable you are, the tools you have, and how complex the project is.
DIY Installation
✅ Pros:
Save money on labor costs (usually $2 to $5 per sq ft).
Work at your own pace.
Ideal for small, simple rooms.
❌ Cons:
Need basic tools (spacers, tapping block, saws).
Mistakes like wrong expansion gaps can cause issues.
Takes time, especially in larger or oddly shaped areas.
Professional Installation
✅ Pros:
Quick, accurate installation.
Experts handle subfloor prep and tricky cuts.
Usually comes with a warranty.
❌ Cons:
Extra cost — usually $2 to $5 per sq ft for labor.
On average, laminate flooring installation (materials + labor) costs between $4 and $12 per square foot based on style and complexity. For more details, see our Laminate Flooring Cost Guide.
| Installation Method | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $1.50 – $4 (materials only) | Save on labor Flexible schedule Good for small areas | Time-consuming Requires tools & skills Mistakes can be costly |
| Professional Installation | $4 – $12 (materials + labor) | Fast & precise Warranty often included Handles complex cuts & transitions | Higher upfront cost |
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Laminate Flooring Installation Project?
If you want to learn how to install laminate flooring, you’re on your way to having a nice, strong floor. But if you’d like to avoid the hard work, our skilled team can assist you.
We do it all — from getting the subfloor ready to aligning the planks perfectly — so you can relax and enjoy perfect, lasting results. We’ll also help you select the best laminate style and underlayment for your space and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and check if we serve your area.
