How To Install Tile Flooring (DIY Guide)

Everything You’ll Need

Tool / Material

Ceramic Tile

Porcelain Tile

Purpose

Tape Measure

✔

Measure room size and tile gaps

Chalk Line

✔

Draw center lines and guides

Straight Edge

✔

Help with straight cuts

Pry Bar

✔

Take off baseboards or old floors

Spacers

✔

Keep grout lines even

Notched Trowel

✔

Spread mortar on the floor

Mixing Paddle & Drill

✔

Mix mortar and grout well

Wet Saw or Tile Cutter

✔

Cut tiles for edges and corners

Utility Knife

✔

Cut underlayment or backer board

Level

✔

Make sure tiles are flat

Grout Float

✔

Push grout into spaces

Bucket & Sponge

✔

Clean tiles and remove grout marks

Knee Pads

✔

Protect knees on the floor

Safety Glasses

✔

Protect eyes when cutting

Gloves

✔

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Step 1: Prepare the Space

Take off Baseboards and Old Flooring

Begin by taking off any baseboards and old flooring to show the subfloor. This gives a clean, flat surface for your tile work.

Use a pry bar to gently remove the baseboards without harming the walls. If changing out laminate or vinyl, cut them into easy pieces and clean off any glue. For old tile, use a hammer and chisel or floor scraper to lift and remove tiles and mortar.

Clean the Subfloor Well

Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to remove dust and dirt. A clean surface helps the mortar stick right and keeps the finished floor smooth.

Look for Damage or Wetness

Check the subfloor for cracks, holes, or bumps. Use a level to find low or high spots.

Cracks or holes: Fill them with patching compound.
Uneven areas: Use floor leveling compound for a flat base.
If on concrete, use a moisture meter to check for wetness. High moisture can cause tile or grout problems, so fix wetness before continuing.

Put Down Underlayment or Cement Backer Board (if needed)

Depending on your subfloor type:

Wood subfloors: Add cement backer board for a stable, water-resistant base.
Concrete subfloors: Usually don’t need underlayment, but a crack isolation or waterproofing membrane might help sometimes.

Secure backer board panels following the maker’s instructions, using the right screws and leaving gaps between panels.

Step 2: Plan Your Tile Layout

Find Room Center and Mark Lines

Start by finding the room’s center. Measure the midpoint of each wall and draw chalk lines across the floor. The crossover point is where you begin laying tiles, ensuring a balanced layout.

Pick Your Tile Pattern

For beginners, simple patterns work best:

Straight Lay (Grid Pattern): Align tiles square to the walls for neat rows.
Diagonal (Diamond Pattern): Lay tiles at a 45-degree angle for a more dynamic look — a bit more challenging but doable.

Note: Complex designs like herringbone require more skill and aren’t for beginners.

Dry-Fit Tiles for Alignment

Arrange a few tile rows without mortar to:

Check alignment and spacing.
See how tiles meet walls or doorways.
Adjust to avoid thin tile edges, which can crack.

Spacing and Grout Lines

Use spacers between tiles during dry fitting for even grout lines. Common sizes are 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch.

Calculate Tile Quantity (Add 10–15% for Waste)

Measure the room’s square footage (length × width). Then:

Multiply the square footage by 1.10 (simple layouts) or 1.15 (diagonal/rooms with cuts) for extra tiles.
Order this amount to have enough for the project.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

For most tile floors, especially big ones, thinset mortar is the best way to install. It makes a strong bond between tiles and the floor base.

Common Methods:

Thinset Mortar (Recommended)
This cement glue works well for floor tiles. It handles weight and changes in moisture and temperature. Both beginners and experts use thinset because it lasts long.
Tile Adhesive (Mastic)
Good for small DIY spaces or wall tiles in dry places. It’s easy to use but not strong enough for most floor work or wet places.

Note: For floor tiles, thinset is almost always the best and safest.

Installation Method	Best For	Strength & Durability	DIY Friendliness	Notes
Thinset Mortar	Floor tiles, wet areas (bathrooms, kitchens), large spaces	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Excellent)	Moderate	Industry standard for tile flooring. Handles moisture, weight, and movement.
Tile Adhesive (Mastic)	Small dry areas, wall tiles	⭐⭐ (Limited)	Easy	Not recommended for floor tiles or high-moisture areas. Faster application but lower durability.

Step 4: Mix Mortar and Apply to Subfloor

Mix the Mortar
First, mix the mortar as the instructions say. Use a clean bucket and drill with a mixing paddle to get it smooth without lumps. Let it sit for a few minutes, then mix again before using.

Spread the Mortar
Use a notched trowel to spread the mortar evenly on a small part of the floor. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to make even ridges. These ridges help the tile stick well and ensure the right thickness.

Work in Small Sections
Cover only as much floor as you can tile in 10–15 minutes. This keeps the mortar from drying before the tiles are placed.

Pro Tip:
Put a thin layer of mortar on the back of big tiles (over 12 inches) for better sticking.

Step 5: Lay the First Tiles

Starting right helps the whole project go well.

Start at the Center Point
Use your chalk lines to begin at the room’s center or main spot. This keeps tiles balanced in the room.

Place the First Tile
Put the first tile on the mortar. Press it firmly and turn it a bit to make it stick well.

Use Tile Spacers
Put spacers between tiles to keep gaps even for grout. This makes a neat finish.

Check for Level
After a few tiles, use a level to make sure it’s flat. Fix it before the mortar hardens.

Pro Tip:
Work in small areas so the mortar stays wet until tiles are set!

Step 6: Cutting Tiles to Fit

Cut tiles accurately for a nice, professional look.

Measure and Mark
Use a tape measure to find the size you need. Mark the line with a pencil.

Choose the Right Tool

For straight cuts, use a manual tile cutter.
For curved or intricate cuts, use a wet saw or angle grinder with a diamond blade.

Cut in a Safe Area
Make cuts outside or in a space with good airflow to avoid dust. Wear safety glasses and gloves for safety.

Pro Tip:
Measure twice before cutting for less waste and a perfect fit!

Step 7: Install Remaining Tiles and Let Mortar Cure

Start with some tiles, then keep adding more in rows. Begin from your first spot and use spacers to keep grout lines even. Check often to make sure tiles are flat, and fix them if they aren’t.

Don’t step on new tiles to avoid moving them. Work in small areas so the mortar stays wet enough for tile placement.

Once tiles are all in place, let the mortar set for at least 24 hours (or follow the maker’s advice) before adding grout. This helps create a strong and lasting tile floor.

Step 8: Apply Grout

After the mortar sets, you can grout between the tiles:

Mix the Grout
Mix the grout as per the instructions until it is smooth like peanut butter.
Spread Grout Using a Float
Use a rubber float at a 45° angle to spread grout over the tiles. Push hard to fill all gaps.
Remove Excess Grout
After filling gaps, tilt the float and scrape off extra grout from tiles.
Clean the Tiles with a Damp Sponge
Wait 10 to 15 minutes, then clean tiles with a damp sponge. Rinse often and keep grout in place.
Final Buffing
When grout hazes on tiles (after 30–60 minutes), use a dry cloth to buff and clear any haze.

Step 9: Clean and Seal the Floor

Clean Grout Residue
After grout dries for 24 to 48 hours, a haze may show on tiles. Use a damp sponge or a grout cleaner to wipe tiles gently. Avoid touching grout lines.

Use Grout Sealer
If the grout maker suggests, apply a sealer to guard against water, stains, and mold. Use a small brush or roller-tip bottle for careful application. Let sealer dry fully as per instructions.

Put Back Baseboards and Strips
When all is clean and dry, put back baseboards and add transition strips between floors or rooms. This makes your tile floor look neat and professional.

DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation

Putting in tile flooring by yourself can be cheaper, but it’s not always best for every job. Here’s how to know if DIY or getting a pro is better for you.

DIY Pros

Costs less at the start
Work at your own speed
Good for small and easy rooms (bathrooms, laundry rooms)

DIY Cons

Needs time, accuracy, and special tools
Mistakes can be expensive to fix
Hard for tricky layouts or big areas

Professional Installation Pros

Expert work and lasting results
Quicker finish, especially for big spaces
Includes prep, cutting, and cleanup
Often comes with warranties

Professional Installation Cons

Costs more at the start
Less control over schedule

Cost Comparison

Here’s what you usually might pay:

Installation Type	Average Cost per Sq Ft	Typical Total for 250 Sq Ft
DIY Installation	$2 – $8 (materials + rental tools)	$500 – $2,000
Professional Installation	$8 – $25	$2,000 – $6,250

👉 For a full breakdown, see our Tile Flooring Cost Guide.

Pro Tips for a Successful Tile Flooring Installation

Want great results for your DIY tile work? Keep these tips in mind:

Save time by getting tools and tiles ready first. Put tiles and tools where you can easily reach them.
Use a good wet saw for clean, precise cuts, especially on porcelain tiles.
Mix small amounts of mortar and grout. This stops them from drying out too quickly.
Check for level often with a spirit level as you lay tiles.
Work in small areas. This keeps the mortar from drying before placing tiles.
Reduce breakage. Cut tiles slowly and wear safety glasses.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Tile Flooring

Even experienced DIYers can make these common mistakes:

Skipping subfloor leveling. An uneven subfloor can lead to cracked tiles and uneven lines.
Forgetting spacers. Uneven grout lines can look unprofessional.
Walking on tiles before the mortar sets. This can move tiles and mess up alignment.
Using too much or too little mortar. This affects how well tiles stick or sit evenly.
Not cleaning grout haze quickly. If left too long, it becomes very hard to remove.

Do You Need Professional Help With Your Tile Flooring Installation Project?

You now know how to install tile flooring step-by-step. This creates a strong, nice-looking surface that lasts. If you’d prefer experts do the work — like leveling, cutting, and grouting — we’re here to assist.

Our skilled flooring installation team manages everything for you — from preparing the subfloor to laying and sealing each tile — for a perfect, durable finish. We’ll also guide you in choosing the right tile style and materials for your needs and budget.

Contact us today to set up your free in-home consultation and see if we work in your area!

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